Ibiza, the island with two faces

July 24 2013

by Oscar Héliani / TÊTU

In the middle of the 1990s, Ibiza was both the Guetta, a clubbing marathon boom-boom, local authorities je-m'en-foutistes, body-built guys in thongs and expensive villas rented by groups of fifteen. Very quickly, the gays have shunned the island, preferring Mykonos or Barcelona. But today, Ibiza is changing. Sumptuous residences nested in the heights of the island, new bars and trendy restaurants, design hotels, small heavenly coves without concrete : would Ibiza finally decide to reveal other assets than the low-cost party ?

We entrusted your devoted servant with the task of " investigating " . My mission : to spend a week on the spot to go out, flirt, sunbathe, stroll, eat, chat. My objective : to know if the gays are back on the island, or not. I think of the sublime Jade Jagger showing me her jewelry creations, I see again the pictures of Kate Moss on vacation with the fashion photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott installed on the island, I remember the antics of P. Diddy in the clubs and on his yacht moored off the Balearic Islands. Neither one, nor two, I jump on the plane

The old town of Ibiza © Forbfruit

When landing at the airport, we are caught by the banners and the advertisements praising the parties in huge clubs. From the luggage belt, we are literally attacked by the names of DJs in bright colors and the famous Troya who looks you straight in the eyes. Really murderous, for the blow. hardly arrived at the hotel, the emptied suitcases, we order a cab for the old town of Ibiza which surrounds the famous citadel. In the guide, they speak about the Soap as the bar where it is necessary to be seen.All is said : we go there.

(Photo credit top of page: Rafa and Santi, our two guides in Ibiza © François Rousseau)

On the beautiful crowded terrace, customers of all ages, rather beautiful, rather tanned, rather muscular observe each other. Two caramel vodkas later, the waiter asks : " Where are you from ? "Attempt of millennial approach... Identity declined, not without adding that we are on a mission to check if Ibiza is still worth it. His blood does not make only one turn. " Of course, what a question ! My name is Rafa, and I make it a personal matter. I'm from Mallorca, but I've been working as a seasonal worker in Ibiza for a long time. I know the island like the back of my hand. Since the Phoenicians, it never ceases to enchant its visitors, so you can't escape it. I have a break for lunch. Join me in an hour, and we'll talk about it. "

How could I refuse such an invitation ? And here we are in the middle of a sangria-tortilla trip while Rafa the handsome brunette swallows a paella quickly. " Several communities, before the gays, have plebiscited this beautiful island. The visitor can't leave it anymore. I even read somewhere that there was talk of white magic. Frankly, I don't believe it, but it is true that the island fascinates. It's so beautiful here ! In the 1960s, the hippie community was not mistaken. They lived in this kingdom of tolerance, in harmony with nature. Thirty years later, the gays made it their own Eden before sulking. But they are starting to come back ! "At the end of the meal, Rafa has become a friend. He is inexhaustible about Ibiza, an island that he likes to travel with his friend Santi. We listen to him.

The beach of Es Cavallet © David Sim

The beach
" When I come back in the morning, I can hardly fall asleep because of the heat. With Santi, we have taken the habit of going to the beach early. We rest by bronzing and the sea spray brings freshness. There are about fifty beaches all around the island. My favorite, as for many gays, is called Es Cavallet. You can get there by crossing the salt flats. From the end of June to the end of August, it is a bit crazy, but we always manage to put our towels. A part of this beach is private. Those who prefer to rent deckchairs are not exempted to arrive early either. It is not the ideal place to pass unnoticed or to be with calm in love. But well, if one comes to Ibiza it is also to show itself. If you insist, I can indicate you a pretty small creek, a little apart where you can make nudism. Cala Pluma is at the end of the beach of Las Salinas. "

Formentera
"We are the opposite of Ibiza. Here, there is no need to look for calm and peaceful places, there is only that. about thirty minutes by ferry from the port of Ibiza, it's a total change of scenery. The proximity makes that I often go there alone for the day, I resource myself there. The crystal clear waters are of a unique turquoise color and the long white sandy beaches are really idyllic. My favorite? Ses Illetes. If you spend a few days in Ibiza, take the time to escape for a day in Formentera. There are almost no cars. The day is spent listening to music, taking a dip in the water and then having lunch of fish a la plancha with vegetables drizzled with olive oil. Nibble on goat cheese and figs, the island's specialties. A pure delight."

Formentara © Hans Werner Schneider

La noche
"After the beach, we go home to shower and get ready for the evening. People often go to the bars around the citadel. They always have a friend to meet, stop for a drink, and come back later. A little trip to the Virgen street is a must. It's where you'll find a lot of small gay bars. One comes there to drink a chupito - a shooter -, or even a drink if one spots a pretty boy. But the two most popular bars are undoubtedly the Soap and Angelo. it's a good thing they are next to each other

Around midnight, the promoters of parties send drag-queens accompanied by go-gos to make animations on the terrace and to distribute some flyers of discount on the price of entry of their evening. It's always good to take ! Otherwise, it is common for bartenders to put some good customers on the list. It all depends on the tone you want to set for your night. There are several possibilities. TheAnfora is the only really gay disco in Ibiza. It is located in the old town. Don't look for the aviary that your friends knew in 1999, it's gone. Open every day of the week,Anfora gathers a lot of people around disco and commercial pop, and - most of all! - the dark-room.

But if you're in the mood for a big sound, you'll have to take the car and head for the Space, the Pacha, the Amnesia or the Privilège. The program changes every night. From June to September, famous DJs take turns at the turntables of these huge nightclubs where the entrance fee is around 50 €. Spending an evening in one of these clubs is an experience to be lived at least once. There are many stars who come every summer to party, with their share of paparazzi. My advice: when you come out of the Anfora or one of the big sound factories in the early morning with a little hunger, go to the Croissant Show. Opened by a Frenchman at the foot of the citadel, this bakery serves coffee and cream, as well as delicious ham croissants."

Dalt Vila
" The citadel and its walls are the symbol of the old town, and a nest of romantic spots for anyone who knows how to venture there. When I go with Santi to Dalt Vila (the upper town) at the end of the day, we spend some time looking at the sea, the salt flats and the small natural port. I find the view sublime. Let' s not forget that 2 ,700 years ago, the Carthaginians found themselves in the same place and, overwhelmed by so much beauty,decided to erect a fortress there. in short, the best way to find isolated corners is to stroll and get lost in the alleys.

Of course, there are the streets where all the tourists go, but you just have to take a small side road to find yourself, alone, in a courtyard under a bougainvillea. Ideal for a passionate kiss ! On the way down, we stop with Santi to drink a cerveza, a beer, and to taste some tapas in Sa Penya, the old fishermen's district. In summer, the island is crowded, but the solitude is not the luxury of the billionaires. Ask a local and he'll point you to a secluded spot or even a cove where the cry of the seagulls is only disturbed by the ballet of the waves. Beware, a first-time tourist might be tempted to go to the world-famous Cafe del Mar in Sant Antoni. I won't take my darling there. There are too many tourists and the concrete blocks on the beach depress me. I much prefer Es Vedrà. "

The citadel © Forbfruit

Es Vedrà
" I love the beach of Cala d'Hort. The magic of the place takes the form of a rocky islet, off the coast, named Es Vedrà. I go there with Santi when we want to be together. If you go there for the day, you can rent deckchairs and find a few small restaurants on the top. The road is a bit difficult but the rock is so majestic, it's worth it. Many things are said about the irresistible magnetism of this rock, like these stories of hippy women who all wanted to give birth there. One thing is for sure, at sunset, the rock is nestled in light, creating such a romantic atmosphere that you just want to curl up in your sweetheart's arms and spend the night there. "

The islet of Es Vedra © François Rousseau

Rafa's fiery gaze is lost in the void. I think of Etienne Daho, who has a villa on the island, and one of his songs. " The crazy love that makes my veins beat / Tell you everything, of the heat that inflames me / Causes chain reactions in you / Come to me / See you in Vedrà... " The appointment is made with Rafa and Santi. Promised, we will come back to Ibiza !